Seven Weeks with the Camera among the Glaciers of Mt Cook

George Moodie’s account and photographs from his February 1893 trip to Mount Cook.

• Text sourced from the NZ Alpine Journal Vol I, No. 4, November 1893.
• Photographs from the Te Papa Digital Archive.

I have attempted to find, locate, and place the photographs that Moodie describes into the relevant areas of his account. I think these are mostly correct, however there may be inaccuracies.

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I LEFT Dunedin for Messrs. Burton Bros., on 28th Feb., for Mt. Cook, with my mind made up to get a really good set of alpine photos, pictorial and otherwise, by taking the camera to the most difficult and interesting places where camera had never before been placed. Knowing such scenes must have a special charm for alpine climbers, and perchance be edifying,

I made a special feature of my trip the getting of the camera to the very birth of the three great glaciers – the Tasman, Hooker, and Mueller. I shall say a few words here regarding the wondrous charms of the head ice of the Mueller on which I shall enlarge later. I should strongly recommend this as a good trip for tourists and to all interested in grand alpine sights; it is easy of access with a moderate swag, and, from what I could gather at the Hermitage, to go right to the head is a route never taken by the tourist—in fact my worthy guide was never there before.

We made one camp about four or five miles from the terminal face, and up to that place is the hardest walking, the glacier being very rough with large loose boulders. At one spot we came to a steep precipice, a charming place to climb, with a stream running down. As we get near the head of the moraine we find ourselves on to the clear ice, which is beautifully smooth and quite easy to walk on, the only danger being crevasses filled up with soft snow. Otherwise the head of this glacier is as smooth as a billiard table compared with the Tasman and Hooker. The sight at the head is truly grand; on the left is Barron Saddle, and from there the view is most extensive. Mt. Sealy stands right before us, looking so noble. How we longed to scale him! We had a route all planned out, but time would not permit of our carrying or rather trying to carry out such an extensive expedition. I should strongly advocate Government’s putting a hut on the Mueller Glacier, for it most certainly will some day be one of the features of the Mt. Cook district.

I determined first to tackle the great Tasman, and by aid of pack horses managed to get an 18 x 14 camera, also a smaller camera, a most handy size which I should strongly recommend to alpine climbers, namely 7 ½ x 5, and a rare swag of plates, deposited safely at the Ball Hut, where we arrived just at dark. We made a hearty tea, lay down in comfortable bunks and looked eagerly forward for the morrow, when my eyes would rest for the first time on a true glacier. It is amazing how ignorant the ordinarily educated man is regarding a glacier, and I must confess I had no idea it was what it is.

The morning broke fine. We were up at 6, breakfasted, packed our things, which consisted of the big camera, a dozen 18 x 14 plates, dark tent, tripod, focussing cloth, lens, and lunch, dividing these equally between guide and myself. We did not want any more.

Eight o’clock saw us making for the clear ice of the great Tasman Glacier, Mr. Blackett keeping us company, taking his pocket camera with him. The first view (and perhaps the finest out of all the 176 different views I took) was of the famous Hochstetter ice falls. What a marvellous and indescribable sight, this fall of over 4,000 feet of beautiful sérac ice presents to the eye, with its great pinnacles continually toppling over, and crashing down with a dull roar. The large 18 x 14 lens brings out the broken ice to perfection ; the 12x10 and full plate of same are not to be compared with it. I may here say Mount Tasman in this picture shows up grandly in the background.

The second view was taken farther up the glacier, and more to the right, showing Mount Haidenger’s highest peak, Mount De la Bêche, and Elie de Beaumont, and of course showing very well the Kron Prinz Rudolf Glacier. Then, thirdly, from the centre of the glacier I took De la Bêche, and the Minarets with some grand ice faces and caves in foreground, and, fourthly, De la Bêche, Elie de Beaumont, the Minarets and Hochstetter Dome.

I was rather taken aback on getting under the dark tent for the first time at the amount of light that came up through the clear blue ice, but got over it by laying down the focussing cloth and our coats. Now we made tracks home, and none too soon as the last part, traversed in the dusk, consisted of very rough moraine, and every step had to be picked owing to the weight and value of our swags. The guide here remarked that crossing a moraine with swags in the dark was like putting your foot out of bed to feel for daylight. However, at 7 p.m. we arrived at the Ball Hut without any breakages, but with sore backs, and very tired. The weather all day was simply perfect, but, I must say I was thankful at being finished with “Big Ben” as far as the Tasman was concerned.

Next day Adamson had to go back with Mr. Blackett to the Hermitage, and I remained alone for two days till he returned with provisions, and another man, Graham, to give a hand with the swag to our next camp at the foot of De la Bêche, about seven or eight miles up the glacier.

While waiting their return, I took a few views close about: one rather interesting, a bit up the Ball Pass track, looking towards De la Bêche and showing the Ball glacier in foreground sweeping into the Tasman.The Keas are most interesting and amusing birds, and I was thankful for their company. I don’t know what I should have done without them the two days I spent alone. While taking the above view, I nearly lost my camera; it was placed on the edge of a precipice, and I was just stooping down to get a dark slide, when a gust of wind came, and over it went. I made a grasp at one leg when it was half over, and just caught it ; it was a good while before I forgot this incident, for the loss of the camera would have left me in a sorry plight.

Adamson returned bringing Graham with him to help to swag to the Bivouac at foot of De la Bêche. I need not say anything of the difficulty of the undertaking. Those who have trudged that weary stretch of ice will thoroughly understand. We took three dozen 12 x 10, five dozen 8 ½ x 6 ½ , and three dozen 7 ½ x 5 plates, and dark tent, besides cameras and provisions. However we arrived safely.

Let me here say, regarding the willing and indispensable services of Adamson and Graham, that they were quite as eager and enthusiastic as myself, and to them is owing much of the success of my trip.

On arriving at the bivouac, Graham returned to the Ball hut, and afterwards on to the Hermitage, to bring more provisions. After tea we turned in, right glad of rest, using as covering the dark tent and focussing cloth, as we only carried one blanket, to save weight. The scenery on the route up is truly glorious. The first point of interest is the Ball Pass and Glacier, with Mounts Mabel and Rosa on left, and Mount Cook towering on right. Next stands up boldly the eastern buttress, shutting out Aorangi’s highest peak from the valley below. Then the wondrous Hochstetter Icefall, with the great Mount Tasman’s apparently inaccessible peak in the background. We may safely consider this one of the grandest views of the Tasman Glacier, a great fall of beautiful sérac ice of 4,000 ft. in height, with huge pinnacles of ice continually toppling over. Then follows the Freshfield Glacier. Between these last two is the point the Rev. Mr. Green took in his notable ascent of Mount Cook, his two other routes having failed. Then comes an enormous ice-field, 6,000 feet right from the shoulders of Mounts Haidinger and Haast, the Haast Glacier. Next the Kauffman, named after the famous Swiss guide, and lastly the Forrest Ross and Kron Prinz Rudolf Glaciers.

Next morning broke dull, and after breakfast, as there seemed no prospect of using the camera, the guide and myself went on an exploring expedition across the glacier to the Malte Brun Range, to find a spot to take a panorama of the great Tasman Glacier. We found great difficulty in getting on to the glacier owing to the huge blocks of ice and the crevasses, but, once on, travelling was easy, though the same difficulty was met with on getting to the other side. One nasty place was just like the sharp ridge of a roof 30 or 40 feet of crevasse on either side, and so sharp we had to level it off with the ice-axe to get enough surface for our feet. On Malte Brun we went to an altitude of about 5,000 feet, and found an excellent spot to take a panorama. By this time the fog had set in very thick and the guide was getting anxious, so, hastily gathering up some scrub for firewood, we made tracks back as fast as possible, for we were very frightened of the fog setting in all round us, and not being able to find our way back. By the time we had reached the middle of the glacier the fog had turned into thick rain and completely obscured the other side. Being a new chum at ice-work I confess I felt a bit queer, but Adamson’s skilful piloting brought us so close to the bad place on the other side that in a very few minutes we found the steps we cut when coming over. On reaching our bivouac at twelve, soaked to the skin, we were truly glad to see Graham trying hard to boil the billy, having come with provisions from the fifth camp. Now we were a party of three, and sat down to a hearty lunch, after which Adamson and I turned in ; and Graham, not liking the look of things, made his way back to the Hermitage. Although it was just noon we had no option but to go to bed under our one blanket, and remain there till eight next morning, taking our clothes under the blanket so as to dry them. We spent a most miserable night, the cold being so intense that sleep was out of the question. A good deal of snow fell during the night. We felt the cold most on our faces and heads, and had to wear handkerchiefs tied round and hats on as well. Next morning was dull and cold, freezing hard and no signs of clearing, so we made for the Hermitage, covering our cameras, etc., before leaving. The great drawback of the bivouac is the want of firewood. What little we had was taken up on our backs from the Ball Hut, and from the Malte Brun. We arrived at the Hermitage in the afternoon, and enjoyed a bath, a good square meal, and a comfortable bed. As next morning turned out fine, we made straight for the Bivouac once more, arriving at 7p.m. and very tired. It was a beautiful night till about twelve o’clock, and we felt certain of a fine day on the morrow. But it is astonishing how soon the weather changes amongst the mountains, for the morning saw the ground covered with snow. It was disheartening, but this time we determined to weather it out.

How different from last night, as I lay awake admiring the glorious scenery! The mighty chain of snow-clad mountains, with Aorangi towering above them, not a cloud in the sky, and myriads of stars shining brightly, and the avalanches roaring all night long. All this we saw as we lay beneath our rock quite open to the south. As there was no chance of doing anything with the camera, we set to and did a good day’s work, by building up a solid stone wall in front of the Bivouac. Fortune at last smiled on us, for the next morning was as perfect a day as could be. So we made an early start to cross the glacier. The cold was most severe at the start, so sharp I could not hold the ice-axe in my hand but had to put it under my arm, but, as the sun rose, the day was just as hot as the morning was cold. The new snow that had fallen made the journey not only difficult but dangerous, more especially as we left our rope behind, having more swag than we were fit to carry—really too much for two. The new snow had filled up the crevasses, and Adamson had to prog with the axe the ice at every step, thus making our progress slow and tiresome.

In due course we reached the place previously picked out, and what a lovely panorama stretched around us ! On our right hand was the head of the Tasman, a grand and noble sight; the beautiful Elie de Beaumont, with its snowy and cone-like peaks, is the most striking mountain about the Tasman – also the Hochstetter Dome. For a snow-covered mountain this certainly takes the palm, for it is snow-clad from foot to summit, just as if a white sheet had been thrown right over it. We started at once, and took the panorama both in 12 x 10, (four plates) and full plate (five plates). The air was beautifully clear, just such a day to raise one’s spirits, and make you feel life is worth living. There is a charm about Alpine scenery quite apart from all other kinds. I exposed 28 plates, mostly of the head of the glacier, securing a fine one of Mount Darwin. I may here mention that the panoramic view extends from Mount Darwin to below Mount Cook.

The want of water was felt very much on Malte Brun. The only way we were able to get a drink was by laying snow on a rock in the sun and catching the drops as they fell. I suffered greatly from thirst all the time on the glaciers, and drinking did not seem to quench it at all, in fact the more you drink of these icy waters the greater the thirst.

We recrossed the glacier, and reached our camp at 5.30, fairly tired out, got tea and turned in. Next day was fair but lacked sunshine. We started with 7 ½ x 5 camera for a scramble up De la Beche. I need not give details of ascent, suffice it to say we reached an altitude of 6,000 feet, the view being truly grand, and from that point I secured a three-plate panorama of Malte Brun ; the contrast with the first one being most striking, the Malte Brun Range being destitute of snow, while looking from Malte Brun you gaze on a mass of mighty snow peaks. I secured also some very fine stereos, and exposed a number of 12 x 10 full plates. In the afternoon Graham came up to help us down with the swags. So ended our work at the head of the Great Tasman, and most glad we were to be once more snugly seated in Ball Hut, which seems quite luxurious after the Bivouac.

We made an early start to finish the Tasman, going over much the same ground as with the 18 x 16 camera, only doing it in 12 x 10, full plates and stereos., and we secured a choice set of negatives. I exposed about 36 plates ; having Graham with us to-day made it much easier, and we got over a lot of ground.

All arrangements were made at night for doing the Ball Pass in the morning. We were up at 4.30, had breakfast, and were disgusted to see the clouds come rolling over. So we packed up and made for the Hermitage, stopping 30 minutes at the Blue Lake where a few nice negatives were secured. We reached the Hermitage about 6 o’clock, and it is after a trip like this that one learns to appreciate a comfortable bed.

The next few days I took a number of views about the Hermitage so as to recruit before starting to do the Hooker. The first attempt to do the Hooker was a total failure and caused a great deal of extra work. It happened thus – after getting all our traps up the Hooker and our tent pitched, we spent one night there intending next day to finish. The morning was fine, so, thinking to save time, I sent Graham away up Mueller Glacier to find a spot and pitch the tent. He had hardly gone half-an-hour when over came great rolling clouds, making their first appearance on Mt. Stokes, and gradually getting lower and lower. We hoped against hope to see them lift, but it was not to be, and ultimately we hid to shoulder all the swag and get back to the Hermitage. It was most disheartening, for we knew we should have to do it all over again. But as Graham now had our tent pitched on the Mueller, we started the first thing in the morning.

The first part of the journey was rough indeed, being all boulder walking. There is no ice walking all the way to our camp, and only one very nasty bit to go up with heavy swags – a steep cliff about 200 feet high. When past this the worst is over. On arriving at camp about mid-day it was found to be a very cozy spot, although wild and lonely, surrounded by tremendous rocks. I secured a nice set of negatives in the afternoon. From this camp a very fine view is obtained of Mount Sealy, which is a mountain I am surprised alpine climbers do not go for more ; for I feel certain, from its commanding position, there are few mountains in the Southern Alps with a more extensive view. There is great scope for exploring on this glacier. Having taken all the necessary views from near camp, we set to and gathered snow grass, which grew in abundance, to make a comfortable bed. It was perfect, but to make one blanket cover three was a work of art. However the night was simply exquisite and quite warm, and the weather continued so all the time up the Mueller.

We made an early start in the morning, and, as the guide had never been past here, we did not know where we were going. We meant to go a little way up and return for lunch, so we took nothing to eat with us, not even the indispensable flask to modify the ice-cold waters. On and on we went, and, when once on the clear ice, the pace was put on. Now we were right abreast of Mount Sealy and stopped to secure a few views. One fine subject shows Mount Sealy and three fine glaciers—Metelille, Sladden, and Williams. We packed up and still pushed on. We were now nearing the head of the glacier, and walking became both slow and dangerous, especially as we had come away without the all important rope, for, although the glacier here was beautifully smooth, crevasses were numerous and filled with soft snow.

While slowly walking along, Adamson suddenly went down. I was close upon his heels and got a rare fright, seeing his head and shoulders just above the ice. A council of war was now held to consider whether it was wise to proceed further. The decision arrived at was that it was not ground to go over without a rope, but the sight ahead was too tempting : so on we went. On nearing the head, the glacier became a labyrinth of hidden crevasses. We were now right under the saddle, and the guide, pointing up, said, " Boys, you have got to get up there before we turn homewards." By this time the want of food was being felt pretty keenly. Mountaineering is certainly not a good thing to fast on, but at it we went. As this was new ground to the guide, some consideration was necessary as to the best route to take. A splendid field of smooth ice with a moderate slope seemed to me a grand way, but the guide knew better, and started with some stiff rock climbing. When about half-way up the rock face, I was thankful to hear them call out water, as I cannot describe how I suffered from thirst. After the rock-work came a snow slope, and, to finish up with, a little more easy rock-work, which landed us on the summit of the Barron Saddle. What a panorama of loveliness met our delighted gaze! How our spirits rose at the majestic sight! Right below us, stretched the great Dobson Valley, with Lake Ohau away at the far end of it, and further still Ben More Range in Otago. Then turning to the north-east, a scene of grandeur never to be forgotten was revealed ; we stood spell-bound for the minute. After our first raptures were over, we set to with the camera and secured an invaluable and rare set of negatives on every hand. The most sublime of all was that looking to the north-east. To make a good picture of this I decided to ascend a bit higher on a ridge towards Mount Sealy, and had some hard work through deep soft snow. It was well worth the extra trouble, for a sight was before us never to be forgotten. To take the peaks in order, there were Mounts Isabel, Maunga, and Thomson hiding the huge Mount Sefton, Mount Cook towering above them all, Elie de Beaumont, Hochstetter Dome, Darwin, the Malte Brun, and Liebig Ranges, and a faint outline of mountains in the far distance, with the dazzling whiteness of the clear ice of the Mueller glacier right beneath us.

Glorious as was the scenery on the Tasman, I think I enjoyed this better. Once more we make our way back to the Saddle for a last look. By lying down and cautiously stretching over, you look down an awful precipice 3,000 ft. sheer ; to right and left of Saddle, two huge glaciers lie nestling in the mountain slopes, feeding the Dobson River, which wends its way into Lake Ohau. A fine view of two noble peaks was secured from the Saddle looking about south-west; the names of these I am not sure about. A cairn was found with a bottle, but the water had destroyed its contents. Into this a paper with our names was deposited, We came across something interesting here, namely, the complete skeleton of a rabbit in the snow over 7,000 ft. up; further proving that the rabbit will penetrate into every corner of the country. There can be no doubt that this animal was trying to find a pass from the Dobson to the Mount Cook side, and, with “Excelsior” for his motto, perished in the noble attempt! There is another Saddle to the west that has never been ascended, and I feel certain there is something good to be seen from it; but as we had no rope the guide would not go. It is all ice-work and looks perfectly easy. In a letter I had from Adamson this week, he says he is soon going to try the saddle at the head of the Mueller, and I think the ocean can be seen from it. My last plate now exposed, we lingered awhile and drank in the glorious scenery of this enchanting spot.

It was hard to tear ourselves away, but time was precious, as a long tramp to the Hermitage was yet in store for us. So, shouldering our traps, we started with a fine glissade down the snow slope, then came some very difficult rock work, almost perpendicular, so that the swags on our backs, knocking against the rocks, threatened to hurl us headlong to the bottom. The route taken coming down was different from that taken going up, and certainly not so good. Once upon the clear ice the pace was put on, it being a decided descent all the way to the Hermitage, where we arrived about six o’clock, having called at the Camp on our way, taken some lunch and packed up our tent, etc. So ended one of the most interesting experiences I have had.

After a day’s spell a start was made to do the Hooker. Of this trip all my notes have gone astray. We left at 7 a.m., none too early, as the last few days had been very warm, and travelling up these valleys when the sun is at its height, takes it out of one, as we found out by the time we reached the camp. Graham and I had a shower bath under a waterfall coming straight from one of the glaciers, which tuned us up, the water being so intensely cold that about four seconds was all we could stand of it. In the afternoon a few views were secured. The most striking mountain at the head of the Hooker is Stokes; and a really grand mountain it is, with some fine glaciers. This is the favourite trip for the tourist, as there is a fair track up to where we camp. Next morning we started early for a big day’s work at the head of the glacier. The ice up here is rough and broken up. We got the camera on top of one huge block as big as a house, and obtained some fine stereoscopic views, after which an attempt was made to get up Baker Saddle ; but we found it quite impracticable, the ice being far too broken up. I obtained nice negatives of the Empress and Noeline Glaciers, and then turned homewards, feeling very disappointed at failing to do the Saddle.

Mount Sefton has a most peculiar shape from up the Hooker, the best description being that of a razor edge, so strikingly sharp is it. The head of the Hooker is very grand, but the mountains seem to me to be almost impossible to ascend. Our homeward journey was uneventful. We got back none too soon, as a storm was brewing all the way back, and a howling norwester blowing, making it impossible to expose a plate for the next four or five days ; but my work was now finished with the Hooker Glacier, and although I love to gaze on such sublime scenes, traversing the glaciers, and scaling the mountains with such heavy swags, such a series of views necessitates, is not all enjoyment, and I feel it would take a great deal to make me go through the same again. On the way home I stopped at Lake Pukaki, and I obtained some nice views of Mount Cook, on full plates, with the 18 x 14 lens. From Pukaki I coached it right through to Lake Wanaka, – I was charmed with this beautiful Lake, and got some fine negatives, – then down to Lawrence, and thence by train to Dunedin.

Perhaps a few words re plates, etc., would not be out of place. I had several kinds, — “Ilford’s Ordinary” and " Rapid," “Edward’s Isochromatic,” “Wratten’s Ordinary” and “Instantaneous;” but certainly the best plate of all was “Wratten’s Slow.” For snow work there is no plate better. “Wratten’s Instantaneous” are excellent, all my 18x14 were these. Wratten’s seem to have a greater depth, being far richer in silver than most plates. The exposure for “Wratten’s Slow” varied from four seconds to twelve seconds with the smallest stop; there is a grand latitude with these plates. I never lost a single subject, and you are not liable to fog them in changing, like you are with a fast plate. For developing there are dozens of formulae, all giving excellent results. Stick to the one you are in the habit of using, and get as near the correct exposure as possible. The best colour for a fine printing negative is a good yellow. Do not use sulphite of soda, except for lantern slides. A pretty blue negative is most deceiving.

In conclusion I would say Mount Cook will yet command an immense tourist traffic, as it is undoubtedly the show ground of New Zealand.